After Human Fish, Bevog and Pelicon, to mention only the most often mentioned, the number of Slovenian beers has suddenly increased. Beer lovers developed a more refined taste, and the request for the so-called craft (boutique) beers has rapidly increased – actually so rapidly that not even the previously mentioned micro-breweries are capable to satisfy the need. The beer revolution has gained momentum.

For now Union and Laško need not worry about losing the leading position, but small breweries have encouraged both giants to expand and widen their offer.

We have already written of the Union Beer Hall. Almost a month after its opening the crowd still gathers, which proves that the inhabitants of Ljubljana had a need for such a place. They have made a step in right direction, in spite of some initial problems (service, security guards at the gates).

Besides the classic offer, Union is gaining approval with non-filtered beer, and beer by brewer's choice, accompanied by the impressive menu of themed snacks, from Union goulash and dough pockets ('krapci') to old Ljubljana dishes (unfortunately only until 10 p.m.). The products of Laško, the twin brewery, are available as well – although the waiters obviously still don't know what they are actually selling under the names of "striptis" and "amber".

Proof that also the big ones can make 'craft beer'
In order to avoid falling behind their eternal 'frog' competitor (the inhabitants of Ljubljana are also known as 'frogs', i.e. 'žabarji' in Slovenian), Laško at their 190th anniversary introduced their new line of the so-called craft beers, Laško Special. Craft beers originate in the USA, where in the 80s a renaissance of breweries started; these concentrated on quality, and revival of the already forgotten types of beer. "Craft breweries are not about the size – some of craft breweries abroad are twice as large as Laško. It is about having the guts to do it," Laško remains self-confident. They consider themselves "the most traditional brewery in 500 kilometre radius".

As Urban Kramberger, head of the project at Laško, said for MMC, craft beers are perfectly compatible with such large breweries as Laško. "We have it all – natural resources, water of best quality, knowledge, technology, and, which is the most important, the human factor. And that can't be bought," Kramberger said, adding that they were encouraged in designing the "Special" line by consumers' demand, and were not forced into it by competition. "We consider it more as a challenge - we want to prove that we can be crafters too. We can do everything they can."

"Beer became a ritual, it is not only a beverage any more, but it developed into cuisine, and it is not only a Slovenian, but a world trend. Lately beer is gaining a bigger role," explains Kramberger, who believes the sky is the limit for Laško. For now there are three 'special characters' on shelves: - citra lager, golding and striptis, but they are planning quite some more.

Retro look
Brewers from Styria have planned their revolution on a grand scale; their marketing campaign is refined to the last detail, and without any doubt it will attract everybody, from traditionalists to hipsters. It starts with the bottles: small, containing 33 centilitres, rounded, with a retro label printed on printing presses from the beginning of the previous century, with a serial number and the signature of one of the three 'specialists', "master brewers", veterans at Laško, responsible for new tastes - Regina Godec, Andrej Škorja and Nataša Kočar. Their faces were eternalized for the campaign through the photographic lens of Borut Peterlin, who for that purpose used an old photography technique of wet collodion. Every last detail has been thought out.

The label on the bottle neck itself shows where the inspiration for their product came from, the past or new trends: red is pointing back, to the already forgotten tradition ( such are lager golding, brewed from three autochthonous species of Slovenian hops, and dark striptis bock with a high level of alcohol and essence, with fruity taste of citrus fruit (IPA style) and aromatic sour cherry & chestnut, the blend of special dark beer and a beverage with sour cherry and chestnut fragrance (not yet on the market). The initial feedback was excellent, according to Kramberger. So good, in fact, that they have already been contacted from Padova, Italy, with their intent to import Laško special.

Blend of beer and cuisine
"Specials" have been introduced to the »seventh force« at the Laško Castle. At that occasion chef Marko Pavčnik explained his hypothesis on beer as cuisine, and supported it with his creations. Head of the kitchen in Pavus, abiding by the local, is becoming more and more convinced that beer can easily, and quite decently, replace the conventional choice – wine. He demonstrated his vision by beer "finger food", thus elevating the food traditionally associated with the term 'beer food' a couple of steps above goulash and sausages.

Snails were bathed in ragout with golding, trout was marinated in citra lager, and served with ginger and horseradish cream, goose confit was made overnight, and then grated goose liver, pine nuts, and striptisa jelly were added. Danube salmon was poached in citra lager with vanilla, and served on zabaione made with citra lager and beluga lentil; veal sweetbread with parsley puree was served with meat sauce with striptis, for risotto with poached yolk and smoked sturgeon golding was used, and wild boar cheeks with black nuts and parsnip puree were served on sauce made with special sour cherry & chestnut.

"3X beer and chocolate " desert (white chocolate mousse with club beer, special sour cherry & chestnut ice cream, dark chocolate mousse) remains one of the classical Pavus themes ever since Pavčnik gained approval at his first night of blending beer with cuisine. With all dishes the beer used for cooking was served, and the logic of matching follows the logic of wine: due to its structure and body, striptis is excellent with meat, and citra with fish.

To make the long story short, beer has only begun its march in our country, and it will be worth paying attention how far we can reach.

Kaja Sajovic
Translated by G. K.