Best known for its intermittent lake, the small town of Cerknica also hides a somewhat darker past. For centuries, it has been known of being the home of witches. Foto: Srdjan Živulović/BoBo
Best known for its intermittent lake, the small town of Cerknica also hides a somewhat darker past. For centuries, it has been known of being the home of witches. Foto: Srdjan Živulović/BoBo

Best known for its intermittent lake, the small town of Cerknica also hides a somewhat darker past. For centuries, it has been known of being the home of witches.

The hill of Slivnica, which overlooks Cerknica, is now popular among hikers, but according to local lore, it has long been a refuge for occult forces. It is said to have been a meeting place for witches who flew here on broomsticks from Klek in modern-day Croatia. Even the great 17th century polymath Johann Weichhart von Valvasor wrote about witchcraft in the area.

Local legend states that when the witches of Slivnica began to practice their evil magic, the hill was quickly enveloped in fog. From their lair in a local cave, the witches began to cook up lightning and thunderstorms that they played havoc in the valleys below.

Scientists now know that thunderstorms in the area are the result of moist, unstable air moving in from the Adriatic, but for centuries, the locals tried to stop the storms by scaring away the witches. Priests led a number of processions to the hill, and at various times, they helped to erect poles topped with crosses intended to frighten the witches. There was even an attempt to seal off the cave that was thought to be the home of the witches. Unfortunately, the plan backfired as the rock that would have closed the entrance instead rolled down the hill and towards Cerknica, almost crushing a home.

These days, the witches are no longer quite as feared as they were in centuries past. In fact, brown bears tend to be a bigger worry for hikers heading to the top of Slivnica. Still, the town remains proud of its wicked old women. Every year, a parade prominently features the witches of Slivnica, who have become something of a local brand. They are even used to draw visitors to the area in hopes of transforming the hill country around town into a tourist destination.