Jovan learned his skills in the best restaurants in Spain, France, Italy and Denmark. And every year he still wants to go abroad for (unpaid) work experience. Foto: MMC RTV SLO/Kaja Sajovic
Jovan learned his skills in the best restaurants in Spain, France, Italy and Denmark. And every year he still wants to go abroad for (unpaid) work experience. Foto: MMC RTV SLO/Kaja Sajovic


It was a risky move, as the surrounding in which he opened his restaurant isn't exactly known for its appreciation of top-level modern culinary. Four months after the official opening of Galerija Okusov (Gallery of Tastes) it has already been acknowledged as the "most beautiful" thing to happen in Slovenia in 2014 (Nedelo culinary critic Uroš Mencinger) and as something "extraordinary" (Dolce Vita).
Jovan and his partner, a trend-sensitive designer Gašper Puhan, don’t leave anything to chance and have invested a lot of energy in creating their recognisability – the ambience of the restaurant, located in the heart of a baroque park and the Novo Celje manor is beautiful (it comes as no surprise that Galerija Okusov has numerous wedding and picnic reservations). The restaurant’s interior combines the retro (wooden tables, enamel dishware) and modern styles (Scandinavian chandeliers). Plates are beautifully designed to the last detail.
The imaginative combinations of tastes and textures reveal the influence of Ana Roš from the Hiša Franko restaurant, where young Jovan learned the trade, as well as the influence of Jovan’s travels abroad, where he seeks knowledge from great chefs.
The result is not an imitation of anyone, although Jovan admits his looks up to Antonio Luis Andruiz, Daniel Humm, Grant Ach, Rasmus Kofoed and Magnus Nilsson. Mostly thanks to Jovan's wife Klara, a daughter of the Celje gardening master Valner, unique and original plates have embraced the flowery – decorative – edible element. Herbs, spices, nasturtiums, violets, marigolds… they all find their place in Jovan's creations, whether it be a baked rabbit or chocolate soufflé, a smoked sturgeon or Salzburg dumplings. It is most appropriate that »the Gallery« was opened on the first day of spring.
The philosophy behind the restaurant was clearly outlined a couple of months before the opening. Jovan had dreamt about it for years. In Mr. Puhan he found much more than a perceptive business partner. At the beginning the idea was to set up a so-called "from fork to fork" restaurant – a restaurant where every ingredient would be seasonal, fresh, traceable if possible, local and even micro local. Those nature principles then lead to stone plates, stream stones, cork, wooden boards and round cut trunks on which »the Gallery« serves its creations.