Subida's main building is the Al Cacciatore restaurant, holder of the Michelin star Foto: MMC RTV SLO
Subida's main building is the Al Cacciatore restaurant, holder of the Michelin star Foto: MMC RTV SLO
Joško Sirk is considered an authority on the other side of the border. Foto: MMC RTV SLO

Sirk would be the last to deny he has a strong character. He is capable of giving a good talking-to both to a haughty Slovenian, or a nationalist Italian. He brought Subida to where it is today exclusively with his strong will, and vision.

65-year old Sirk is skilfully and wilfully steering between the homeland of his parents, and the homeland of his children, ever since his family, after leaving Brda, in 1959 decided to open an inn on the Italian side. From a country inn Sirk turned it into a culinary institution, and with the addition of accommodations it became one of the most desired boutique destinations in our immediate vicinity.

Sirk's attitude towards the acknowledgment is pragmatic: "A Michelin star can be either a blessing, or a misfortune. If you consider it a prize for your work, it's OK, but if you consider it something else, there is no need to jump from a bridge if you don't get it. We are proud, we give our thanks, and that's all."

Subida is "a small centre for green tourism", as it's written on their website, and Al Cacciatore is a restaurant where in winter guests sit under Joško's hunting trophies, and in summer under a gorgeous, massive linden tree which dominates the courtyard and is the exact same age as Sirk!

Family project
Subida is most certainly a family affair – when you arrive you are warmly welcomed by Sirk's wife Loredana, and their daughter Tanja, who gave up her career as a lawyer to help the family business, offers you a welcome glass of sparkling wine (Buzzinelli Brut from Krmin). Her husband Alessandro Gavagna has been the chef at Cacciatore for years, while the youngest Sirk, Mitja, is a sommelier, and lately also a vintner; this year he bottled his first Tokay fruliano.